A look into our company and who we are.
Since releasing our Spoke Torque wrench in 1999 we continually review and evaluate proper torque spec for motorcycle spokes. The OEM manuals offer varying torques from as low as 23in.lbs. to as high as 55in.lbs. Take into consideration bike cc's, spoke gauge, nipple size, the quality of the components, and it's easy to get into a tail spin about what will work best for your motorcycle.
When we were initially developing the Spoke Torque Wrench we worked closely alongside Factory Honda, and more specifically, the wrench turning legend himself, Mike Gosselaar. Factory Honda spec'd 60in.lbs. for the front wheel and 65in.lbs. for the rear. This torque worked great for the demands of the worlds best riders, especially with the constant pounding of SX whoops, but was very abusive to the components which showed a lot of strain from the high torque. When testing the call outs from OEMs, which is typically between 27 to 36in.lbs., spokes would loosen up quite a bit throughout a moto for an average rider.
Through continued testing, 48in.lbs. proved to be an exceptional torque, as the nipples didn't loosen up throughout a single moto, and wheel components are not abused. We tested 48in.lbs. with a variety of riders and bike sizes; From beginners to pros 48in.lbs. did the job it was intended to do, which is lengthen the life of your wheels and help keep them as straight as possible. We recommend 48in.lbs. on motocross quality bikes from 85cc+. In house, though, we've ran 48in.lbs. on our KTM 50 and 65 SXs with great success. Typically for less than 85cc, trail or vintage bikes we recommend 36in.lbs.
Most of our Pre-Set Spoke Torque Wrenches ship at 48in.lbs. We can set the Preset Spoke Torque Wrench to whatever torque spec you prefer before it ships, or you can send it in to be recalibrated. Over the phone we can help you adjust your Spoke Torque Wrench to within a few inch pounds of your desired torque. The exact torque is not as important as the consistency of having the same torque on each spoke for an even pull over the entire wheel.
Don't hesitate to holler with any added questions or concerns, we're always happy to help however we can.
We met Simon and Lisa close to two years ago when they were building new bikes to continue their exploration of the globe. The world travelers had settled down for a few weeks at Riverside BMW to build out a GSA 1200 LC for Simon and a F800 GS for Lisa. A mutual friend, Baja Rally, put us in touch with them as they were searching for a more comfortable ride on the new bikes and he suggested Flexx Handlebars. 30,000 miles later they have a review up on their experience with Flexx Handlebars.
Mini Major, it's Transworld Motocross's amateur national, bringing kids from all over the west coast. The race gets a lot of press on TWMX.com and in the mag which the kids love. The track was really fast, and hard packed with a lot of jumps, the perfect combination for lots of wheel issues. We were busy all weekend helping racers, dads and mechanics get there wheels in good working order by using our Spoke Torque Wrench.
New racers and their parents often don't realize it is necessary to continually check spokes for proper torque, in general it's one of the more confusing components to maintain. It was cool to see parents instantly get what the Spoke Torque Wrench was about and how it would help them better maintain their racers' wheels. As we've always said, "it takes the guess work out." To confirm the directions we supply with our wrench are as helpful as we hoped we watched a few Dads use the directions and the spoke torque wrench for the first time. As we suspected, they brought their wheel up to torque, maintaining the same trueness they started with.
Big jumps, high speeds and hard dirt, the perfect combination for lots of wheel failures.
If you see the #FasstSprinter, come by and check your spokes!
On a blistery winter morning we pointed the WarWagon south to hit some Cali moto tracks and meet up with Simon and Lisa of 2RidetheWorld. We rolled into Competitive Edge about 9a.m. for my boys to do some moto.
With motos done for the day we headed to Riverside BMW. When meeting Simon and Lisa it is immediately apparent the Adventure couple are wise in the ways of the world few are, youthful and sharp. With pleasantries exchanged we got down to business, checking out the work of adventure art Simon's BMW 1200 GSA LC and Lisa's BMW 800 GSA had been transformed into. Each component they chose had been scrutinized and tested before being installed, resulting in bikes that are able not just navigate the globe but go the way less traveled.
At the time of our meeting, Simon and Lisa had not had any experience with Flexx Handlebars, other than mounting them on their bikes and riding them around the parking lot. They immediately noticed the drastically improved ergos our Adventure bend allowed. Mounting the the Touratech hand guards was a challenge, but with the use of our Kudla Connections the task was simplified an finished. With the hand guards mounted they were officially ready to resume their 'normal' life, with Baja being the first destination. We said our goodbyes, and wished them a safe journey.
A few weeks after our visit Simon checked in with some amazing photos and and an update on their Flexx Handlebar experience. No surprise, they were loving the vibration and abuse reduction the big bikes threw off. Feeling fresher day after day on the bike.
Simon and Lisa have recently decided to hang in Baja for the foreseeable future, hosting tours. Check their website out to learn more: http://2ridetheworld.com
Thank you for choosing Flexx Handlebars for your BMW. We are confident you will enjoy their abuse and vibration reduction for a better day of riding. Installing your Flexx Handlebar on the BMW does take a little time and patience. If you run into problems or have any questions please call (877-306-1801) or email us, we are always happy to help.
We suggest reading through the directions before removing your stock bar so you have a clear picture of all the BMW details. In addition to the metric tools required to work on your BMW you will also need a 3.7mm/#27 drill bit and possibly a 4x.75 tap, depending on what year your BMW is and how BMW spec'd it.
-Start by taking note of where and how all of your controls, cables, lines and wires are located.
-Clip all zip ties and undue all cable ties so all wires and lines are free.
-Remove bar end cap bolt, thus removing the bar end cap, and freeing up the hand guard to be removed with the perches. Leave the hand guard attached to the perch.
-Remove the clutch perch, use a #25 torx bit.
-Remove bar end.
-Before removing the instrument pod it is a good idea to take note of the angle the switches sit at with an angleometer. If you have an iphone you have an angleometer in your compass app. Measuring the angle vertically on the high/low switch seems to be the most accurate when measuring and repeatable on the install.
-Remove the instrument pod using a 2mm allen. You should be able to loosen the bolts pinching the pod together, then slide the pod off of the end of the bar once the left grip has been removed. If the wires prevent the pod from sliding all of the way off leave it loose and slide it off when you remove the bar from the clamps.
-You will notice that the left grip hangs off of the bar about an inch, the exposed area of the grip is supported by the bar end which you just removed.
-Remove the left grip. The left grip is mounted on a grip tube and bolted to the bar. To remove the left grip you will need a #20 torx. The left grip is bolted to the bar. Roll back the inside flange of the left grip and you will see the bolt.
-There are two bolts securing the left grip, be sure to remove the 2nd bolt which is 180* from the first one.
-Now all of your clutch side controls should be removed, unless you are waiting to slide the instrument pod off when removing the bar.
-Remove the right side bar end cap with a 6mm allen.
-Remove the insert that supports the grip and mounts the end cap.
-Remove the brake perch with a #25 torx.
-To remove the throttle you will need to remove the cover on the right side instrument pod, this will expose the torx that needs to be loosened to slide the pod off with the throttle. Now use a #20 torx to loosen the two throttle assembly bolts as well. If possible leave the instrument pod and throttle loose so they can be slid off of the end the bar when removing the bar from the clamp.
-Now you are ready to remove the bar. Unbolt the the bar mount caps, maneuver the bar so all of the controls can be slide off.
-Now it’s time to install your Flexx Handlebar. Start by sliding your left and right side controls onto the bar and then placing the bar into the bar clamps. It is easiest to put your throttle assembly on upside down so the metal bracket hangs.
-Adjust the bar to your preferred location. Most riders prefer the bar at 25* towards them. This puts you in a powerful position on and off-road, both sitting and standing.
-With the bars adjusted it is time to adjust your controls, specifically the left side Because the left grip and instrument pod bolt to the bar careful attention needs to be paid to where you adjust it. It is a good idea to loosely mount all of your controls at this time, sit on the bike and work through riding range of motion to be sure you can operate all of your controls and switches both sitting and standing.
-Once you have all of your controls adjusted to your preferences it is time to secure the left grip tube and pod. You will need to drill and tap two holes in the left side handle approximately 90mm form the end of the bar. We recommend installing the bar weight at this time to verify your grip tube and instrument pod are in the correct location.
-Most riders prefer their left instrument pod set from 55-60* based on the high low switch with the switch moved to the upward position.
-With the left instrument pod in your preferred position, roll back the inner flange of the grip to mark the upper mounting hole location. You can also mark the lower bolt position as well but we suggest checking the lower hole location again once the upper hole has been tapped.
-We suggest removing the left side instrument pod and grip to drill and tap the mounting hole. The bar can be completely removed or left on the bike for this step. Sometimes it is easier to drill and tap the handle in vice.
-Use a 3.7mm or #27 drill to drill the upper hole. Next tap the hole with a 4x.75 tap. Go slow when tapping the hole, only cutting a few threads at a time, then backing the tap out to clear the debris. If you try to tap all the way through without backing the tap out you will break the tap off in the bar.
-With the hole tapped we suggest mounting the left grip on the bar, threading the upper bolt in, and then verifying your lower bolt hole location before proceeding to drill and tap the lower hole.
-If you removed the bar for drilling and tapping reinstall it. If you left the bar on the bike reinstall the left side controls.
-With all of the controls mounted, verify everything is adjusted to your preferences and tighten all bolts to factory specifications.
-Gear up and go ride!
Flexx Handlebars are very tunable. Most adventure riders prefer either our Blue (soft) or Yellow (medium) compression elastomer with a Yellow (medium) rebound elastomer, the rebound elastomer is shorter than the compression elastomer. Base settings on the nut is three threads showing outside of the nut. If you turn the nut in it will stiffen the bar, backing it off will make it more compliant. If you need help dialing in your elastomers, or have any questions or concerns please call us, we love to help our riders. 877-306-1801
Relocating the OEM computer on KTM/Husaberg/Husqvarna
Regardless of whether you are starting with your stock bars or with Flexx Handlebars already installed the directions are the same. This was a brand new bike so we had to remove the stock bar. There are several locations you can mount the computer in, we prefer off of the back crossbar, or in between the crossbars.
The only items required to move your computer is two 6x1.0 nuts. You'll use your stock computer mount.
Remove the front headlight/number plate so you have easy access to the computer and bracket as well as plenty of room to work with the wires. If you have a headlight you will need to unplug it.
We suggest you number all of the wires before disconnecting them so it’s easier to reconnect them without confusion.
With the wires disconnected, unclip the cable/line guides. Older bikes may not have guides on the computer mount.
Next, unbolt the computer mount from the triple clamp with an 8mm wrench.
Unplug the headlight knob wires, you can leave the headlight knob on the mount. Loosen the knob’s aluminum retaining nut slightly until you can twist the assembly underneath. Depending on how you orientate the mount, and where you place it will dictate which way the bottom of the knob needs to sit.
At this point you need to decide where you would like to locate the computer. For the most part we mount them off of the rear crossbar, sometimes using a damper crossbar flipped upside down to drop it lower. Many riders mount the computer in between the crossbars, with some taking it a step further and trimming the pad around the computer.
Mounting the computer in between the crossbars offers a great view of the screen and easy access to the buttons.
Here is a photo of the computer sitting behind the rear crossbar. In this instance we are using a straight crossbar. This positions the computer to be easily read, with access to the buttons.
Above, we used a damper crossbar flipped upside down to drop the computer lower, ending up about flush with the top of the bar pad. The limiting factor in mounting it this way is the flipped damper crossbar can interfere with the bar mount. If you take a scale or ruler and set it against the inside of the back of your crossbar you should be able to tell if you have the clearance for a flipped damper crossbar..
If you are going to mount the computer off the backside of either crossbar you will need to flip the computer around on the mount. Your fuel lights, knobs or switches can all be rolled to orientate in the correct position but will be on the opposite side. Once you know where you are going to locate your computer it is time to mark and drill the crossbars. It’s easiest if you locate the bracket where you would like it on the crossbars and use it to mark the holes. You can offset it to one side or the other if you need to create clearance to mount other components. We use a 15/64” drill for the holes.
With the holes drilled it’s time to mount the bracket to the crossbar. If the computer is off of the bracket it is easiest to reattach it before bolting the bracket to the crossbar.You will need 6x1.0 nuts to retain the bolts. Although you could use the stock 6mm mounting bolts we opted for a shorter units so there wasn’t much bolt exposed outside of the nut.
With the computer mounted it's time to reconnect the wires. Before we connect them though we slide a heat shrink wrap over the wires, then connect them. After the wires are connected slide the heat wrap where you would like, covering the connections, and heat it with a heat gun.
With a little trimming on the back side of the cover you should be able to slide the cover in-between the crossbar and the computer, you should not have to trim the foam.
If you have any questions or help please call or email us, we love to help our riders. 877-306-1801.
We've had a lot of riders mounting Cycra's CRM guards to Flexx Handlebars lately. Below is a brief how-to. These instructions are for the Cycra CRM and CRM for Flexx Handlebars bars only. The standard Cyrcra Pro Bend guard requires and external mount to reach the pivot pin. If you have any questions to concerns please call or email us.
CYCRA CRM Hand Guard Instructions
Mounting Cycra CRM guards is fairly y simple if you have not trimmed your Flexx Handlebar narrower. We do suggest using our 10mm hand guard bolt and bushing kit: http://www.fasstco.com/collections/motorcycle/products/simple-solution-bolt-kit, to mount the guard to the pivot pin. Our 10mm button head bolt minimizes the ability for your lines to snag on the bolt head. We also suggest using threaded anchors to secure the guards to the handles. Shown below is the 10mm button head bolt and bushing kit as well as our threaded inserts.
To mount CRM guards you will need to open the 8mm slot shown below where the guard bolts to the pivot pin up to 10mm. Typically you will need to elongate the hole towards the out side of the guard about 1/8”.
Now you can bolt the guard to the pivot pin. Depending on where you have your Flexx Handlebar positioned the guards may sit to high or low. You can easily adjust the angle or height of the guard by bending the portion of the guard that bolts to the handle either up to lower the guard or down to raise the guard. It easiest to do by placing the inner portion of the guard in a vice and twisting the rear of the guard.
In the photo below we are using a 27mm end wrench to bring the rear of the guard up, which results in the guard sitting lower.
Twisting the guard towards the back of the bar will result in raising the guard.
It may take a few tweaks to get the guard to sit at an acceptable height. Once you have it where you would like it tighten up the bolts and you are ready to ride. We suggest using a drop of blue loctite on the 10mm bolt.
If you have any questions, concerns or need any help please let us know.
We've had a lot of requests for a Flexx Handlebar set up for the Liquid Cooled (LC) BMW GS/GSA 1200. With the LC coming with 1 1/4" bars and mounts this was not easy to accommodate. Fortunately Rox stepped up and built a 1 1/4" to 1 1/8" block riser adapter that allowed us to mount Flexx Handlebars on the LC. The Rox block riser also raised the bars about an inch, which most riders we've spoken with preferred. We're working on the final Flexx Handlebar installation instructions, but compared to the previous generation GSA the installation it is quite standard.
Per this rider's ergonomic needs and riding preferences we chose to use our 19* Adventure bend. The 19* Adventure bend put the rider in a more comfortable and powerful position, slightly opening the ergos and better squaring up the rider with the bar. We configured the 19* Adventure bar to work great for a road base adventure rider, aggressive enough that it works well in the twisties, dirt and standing up but not so straight that it's uncomfortable when slogging it out on the highway.
For this rider's preferences we chose to install a blue compression elastomer (soft,) with a yellow rebound rebound elsatomer (medium) to pick up the high frequency abuse like hwy bumps, road chop, stutters and dirt road washboard.
To say this rider was stoked on the ergos and abuse reduction would be an understatement. This rider called and was literally howling about how well the bars worked, noticing less vibration, and how much more powerful the ergos felt.
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